El Rastro - Sun 7 Sep 08

Che at Capitol

Walking down the Gran Via towards Plaza de España, there are some pretty colourful 70's style big lights. Remind me of stuff I have seen on old postcards of Piccadilly Circus. I fancied capturing the adverts for the new films, especially 'Che el Argentino". The film will only debut once and stuff like adverts and the likes are a real sign o the times, especially when looking back on your work. I still haven't found out if I can see a subtitled version of Che. 

So aside from going out for another wander and studying some activity in several plaza's in preparation for some shooting on Monday, I went to a Thai chain place that I'd been to before. It was around 8.45pm and I was the only one in there!!!

I then went to the department store El Corte Ingles and bought a stove top espresso maker as I can't stand anymore cheap Nescafe instant crap. Ok, I'm gonna make some now and watch Ferris Bueller's day off. Tomorrow I will be up early to visit the famed flea market, El Rastro in La Latina. I will hopefully come back with some work I am pleased with. I did last time I was here...

Oh, and last night I watched A Clockwork Orange. What a film!!! I've seen it a few times before but totally forgot how it ended. I couldn't stop laughing at the Ultraviolence and rape scenes. It was the best laugh I had in ages...the last time I laughed like that at a film was when watching the skinheads beat up the shop keeper in "This is England". Wrong I know, but fuck, it just makes me laugh!!!

Fine Art Shit - Fri 5 Sep 08

Today seemed pretty dull compared to how the weather has been. It was pretty windy at times and the clouds were obscuring the sun so for the 1st time, I took a jacket with me. 

I headed for the Museo del Traje which is in Moncloa not too far from El Pardo where I am staying. I was there to see the work of Edward Steichen, the celebrity and fashion photographer who worked for Conde Nast from 1923-1937.

The three things that I like about his work are the amount of space that he leaves around the model. This was especially apparent in his earlier work. Even though the work was generally made in the studio, it had a location feel about it with the surroundings contributing a lot to the photographic story. This is something that runs throu

gh my fashion and music pr work. 

I also like the way he used a chair so much in his sittings, and the way that he gets everyone to sit/pose with it differently! Some of my favourite works are those of women where only the head in visible in the light, along with some flowers that tend to match in some way part of the clothes that are just in view. This is an effective and sub

tle touch I think.

Incidentally, I was surprised to find out that this was free. A special or touring exhibition is always paid for in the UK. My only grumble though was that the lighting seemed strange. The ambient light was practically nil with small spots for each photo. This meant that when you stepped close to examine it, the image became hidden by your shadow! 

The cafe at this place was a grand affair. It was full of semi-pissed arty types clocking off early on Friday. Or maybe they were gonna go back to work. I don't think the Spanish care so much about these things. I was surprised that the bill still gave the amount in Pesetas! I guess some of the art brigade were against the Euro!

So on into town...

I went to the International Cinema that I believed always showed major films in English with Spanish subtitles. I wanted to book for the 1st night of "Che" but it seemed that this was in Spanish. Maybe they never made an English version and it's all in Spanish with English subtitles for that authentic vibe? I dunno! But I do know that I wouldn't understand much if I saw it all in Spanish.

I then remembered where I had seen a decent looking photo store with lots of Kodak and Fuji signs outside. This seemed like a proper place to buy film, not just a tourist gaff. To my surprise they didn't stock 120 roll film. They guy seemed surprised that I asked for it. Surely some people shoot on 120 rolls in Madrid??? Maybe they order it online...

So I headed across the Calle Mayor and up into Malasana. It gets a bit more gritty around here and I stumbled upon some pretty cool buildings...

Just another door but I liked the grills and colour so much...1886!!!

After taking a kip in a square. Yes, I know this is a recurring habit. I do it every day! I have no qualms lying on a park bench or stone slab and having a gentleman's nap. I use my camera bag as a pillow so I would know if someone was gonna try steal it. Well I hope I would notice!

Heading north outta town on the Calle de San Bernardo, things get grittier. This is obviously a poorer barrio, or neighbourhood, and it's the 1st time I feel I have to keep my wits about me more that I usually would. It's the 1st area that I have really seen many North Africans, South Americans and beggars than native Spaniards. Not that I think they are more likely to rob me than anyone else. Nevertheless I like it here. I only took out my back-up camera and ultra wide angle lens today as I couldn't arsed with the weight of the master kit after lugging it around Toledo yesterday but I spotted some good locations to return and shoot.

Here is something interesting that I just stumbled upon. They weren't dead incidentally!..

I liked the textures and colour tones in the building and skip. Oh the glamour of those downtrodden areas!

Another classic old shop front. I went for a shot with people in it. Next time I will go back and shoot it with no one around and with a closer lens.

I got some cheap shit food after this and watched as lots of kids in goth/metal garb came out onto the streets to parade a bit. I was too lazy and not really in the mood to shoot but I might do if I see them again!

Toledo: Coke Bitch and El Greco's Whore.

Pretty much most of the city seemed to be sponsored by Coca Cola. Street Signs and shop signs had seemingly been donated in return for sponsorship and brand exposure. I didn't photograph any explicitly, although one can be seen in the background of the derelict building on, "Toledo Pussy."

They are black and gold and say Coca Cola in large letters with the name of the street or shop beneath much smaller. What a load of cock. The local council should be ashamed of themselves. Ok, so maybe they are not a cash rich council but one of their priorities as a tourist city should be to provide decent signage. Coca Cola obviously saw a gap in the market and some marketing suit saw a way to slip right in and get the brown fizz on the minds and lips of the thirsty tourists.

What's more the city of Toledo, after a while, just seemed like on prostitite, pimping out the El Greco and medieval vibe. 

El Greco (born Crete 1540's) was a painter who settled and worked in Toledo in them old dayze of Art. There are a few museums dedicated to his work but the town sure as hell pushed this one out. On one hand, there's nothing wrong with banging your biggest drum, but it would be nice to hear the sound of a few others too. But what pissed me off most was the fact that in the Jewish quarter, and pretty much every where else too, EVERY shop was the SAME. Seriously! They all sold replica crusader/knight/holy wars type garb and swords, Moorish and Jewish replica plates, candlesticks and the likes and as the usual keyring, brooch and pen branded stuff. Didn't anyone tell them about "unique selling points" or USP's as I believe marketing men call them! I wasn't going to waste my time illustrating this point with a photograph but hey, surely the council can run some kind of business diversity programme? Or judging by their keenness to allow Coca Cola to brand the town, I guess not!

So....

I was relieved to find some older buildings with some individuality and character. Shame this one went out of business! Seems selling the same shit as your neighbour may actually work!

The "B" logo reminded me of the same font used by Bewley's Coffee house of Grafton Street Dublin. I liked this sign too. There are some great fonts and typeface design going on in Spain. At least they retain a lot of heritage here. In Madrid, there are still stores trading under the same signs that they used in the 50's and 60's. I will photograph some soon.

This brings me to the way that fashion and style seem more socialist in Spain. By this I mean that the retailer does not always (on the most part - not) feel the need to excessively tart their store and fittings up just because they are selling "designer" goods. I have seen pretty boring and mundane looking places selling Alexander McQueen and Burberry. Aside from the brand's carried, there has not been a lot to distinguish them from someone selling middle of the road fair. I like the way that the consumer chooses what they want based on a level playing field. In other words, you choose what you like (and can afford). 

Marketing gimickery in the UK and US would see so much spent on shop fronts, fittings and the like to create an "aspirational" look. Aspirational! What a load of cock. In other words what they mean is they want low and middle earners with credit cards to get into debt by appealing to their weaknesses such as vanity and the need to fit into a (false) form of elevated society dreamt up by ad men and even, "creatives". Yes, even you photographers, graphic designers and copywriters are to blame for perpetrating this modern day lie. Who wants to be sold a lifestyle that does not really exist? Not me. And I'm not about to see my work become another spoke in this wheel of shame...

So basically, I like the idea that you just choose based on product. I've always fancied the idea of de-badging a few designer brands and mixing them with some designer-maker and high street stuff in a tarted up gaff and seeing what the "designer" fraternity think without being guided by badges. But down get me wrong....I wear Dior & Westwood too!

On a lighter note, here's a typical Toledo (side) Street. Note lack of branded stores! haha!

This door knocker was pretty cool I thought...

These ladies seemed like twin sisters out for a walk in similar brightly coloured trouser suits. I should have chased them and got some better shots but it was so hot, my camera bag was so heavy and I had been walking up and down steep hills all day...I was a bit moody!

Toledo's Cathedral. Once, the most important in Spain.

Today's Musical Turn Ons

Mgmt  - Kids

Misfits - Die, Die, My Darling

Seu George - Rebel, Rebel

Sma5sh TV - 3 Minutes

Hawkwind - Brainstorm

Joey Beltram - Energy Flash

Humanoid - Stakker Humanoid

Fisherspooner - Emerge

Utah Saints -  Something Good (original mix)

Toothless Dancer Mix-  Big Booty Bitches

Ting Tings -  That's not my name

Brigitte Bardot -  L'Histoire de Jessy James

Toledo Pussy

I really liked this derelict building. The colour tones were perfect and it seemed one of the most interesting buildings I had seen all day. It was around 4.30pm that I found it and the streets were dead. Toledo keeps the Siesta tradition alive! I walked up to the door and peered through the keyhole and this is what I saw...

I seem to keep stumbling upon cats and kittens. The young kittens were suckling of the teets of the mother cat. I was pretty lucky to see this I guess as it only lasted a few seconds.

I tried to kick the door in and get inside. But despite my best efforts the thick old door was securely bolted. It looked so interesting inside, like a hidden world. There was a huge overgrown courtyard and it looked like you could get right into the building. This is my kinda location for a photo shoot, but oh well!

Mud Glorious Mud

Whilst walking about just outside the city walls, I saw some workmen. I was so busy watching one of them who was asleep, that I missed a huge patch of thick mud, and here's the result!

Luckily there was a water fountain and some benches nearby so I washed my sock and shoe and had (another) kip whilst it dried in the sun!